Linking Chile’s Epic Carretera Austral with Mount Fitz Roy
Collaborative guide by: Cicloaustral, Surí and Ruedas de la Patagonia — local companies committed to sustainable travel and cycle tourism in Patagonia.
🌎 Introduction
In the heart of remote Patagonia, Chile and Argentina meet among mountains, glaciers, and impossibly blue lakes. Here, at the southern end of the Carretera Austral, begins one of the most legendary crossings in South America: the Villa O’Higgins to El Chaltén route.
This adventure connects Chile’s Carretera Austral with Argentina’s Mount Fitz Roy, combining two scenic boat rides and a 21 km trekking section between Candelario Mancilla and Lago del Desierto. Every year, hundreds of cyclists and backpackers take on this unforgettable journey between November and April, when the border crossings are open.
🚢 Step 1: Ferry from Villa O’Higgins to Candelario Mancilla
The adventure starts with a 1.5-hour boat ride across the majestic and bi-national O’Higgins / San Martín Lake, one of the deepest lakes in the Americas. The ferry departs from Bahía Bahamondes pier, located at km 1,247 the final point of the Carretera Austral.
- If you’re traveling by bike, you’ll need to pedal about 7 km from Villa O’Higgins to the port.
- On board, enjoy a hot coffee and stunning views of this binational lake surrounded by mountains and fjords until reaching Candelario Mancilla, one of the most remote and magical corners of Chilean Patagonia.
- Here you’ll find the Chilean border post, where you’ll complete the exit procedures before entering Argentina.
🕓 Schedule
- Bahía Bahamondes → Candelario Mancilla: 8:00 am — Mondays & Thursdays (Nov–Dec) / Mon, Thu & Sat (Jan–Feb) / Mon & Thu (Mar–Apr)
- Candelario Mancilla → Bahía Bahamondes: 4:30 pm — same days and seasons
💰 Price: 60,000 CLP (bicycles free) — approx. USD 70
🚴♂️ Cycle Tips
- Exit permit (“Salvoconducto”): Must be completed online before leaving Villa O’Higgins check this link
- Travel insurance: Since July 2025, it’s mandatory to have travel insurance to enter Argentina. You’ll be asked to present it at the Argentine border post by Lago del Desierto.
- Weather conditions: The weather here changes quickly. Always plan for at least one extra day. And as locals say “Those who rush in Patagonia, lose time.”
- Where to stay in Candelario Mancilla:
- 🏕️ Camping Estancia Santa Teresita 🛖 Surí Micro-Shelters (capsules) 🏡 Candelario Mancilla Guesthouse
🥾 Step 2: Trekking from Candelario Mancilla to Lago del Desierto
This 21 km trek connects Chile and Argentina via the Ruta de los Glaciares (Route of the Glaciers), crossing the Dos Lagunas Pass. It’s a challenging but spectacular trail, featuring forests, rivers, mountains, and the first glimpses of Mount Fitz Roy.
Section 1: Candelario Mancilla → Border Marker (16 km)
A public gravel road with moderate incline. The first few kilometers climb steadily with views of O’Higgins Lake and the Southern Icefield. Around km 6 the path levels out, and on clear days, Fitz Roy appears in the distance. You’ll pass an old airstrip, two wooden bridges, and then reach the Chile–Argentina border marker.
Section 2: Border Marker → North Shore of Lago del Desierto (5.4 km)
Once in Argentina, the trail descends through dense, humid forest, crossing small rivers, muddy patches, roots, and log bridges. Along the way you’ll spot Laguna Larga and a natural viewpoint overlooking Lago del Desierto, before reaching the Argentine border post and ferry dock.
The trail can be rough and muddy due to limited maintenance and changing weather. But if you’ve made it this far, you’ve got everything it takes to conquer it!
⛴️ Step 3: Lago del Desierto Ferry and Transfer to El Chaltén
From the north shore, take the ferry across Lago del Desierto — a 45-minute boat ride surrounded by waterfalls, glaciers, and towering peaks.
🕓 Schedule
- Daily departures (except Wednesdays, Christmas, and New Year) until April 15.
- 10:00 am and 4:00 pm — North → South (Chile to Argentina) and South → North (Argentina to Chile).
💰 Price: 40,000 clp + 20,000 for bicycle (~USD 60)
* You can get the tickets along with our rent a bike booking, or directly from ruedas de La Patagonia or Suri crossing service.
From the south shore, El Chaltén is 37 km away. You can take a minibus usually timed with ferry arrivals, or continue cycling along one of Patagonia’s most scenic routes, with campgrounds and refuges offering incredible views of the Los Glaciares National Park.
🌿 Final Cycle Tips
- Respect the environment: This area is fragile and lacks waste management or emergency services. 🚫 Do not camp between border posts, light fires, or leave trash behind.
- Plan with flexibility: Weather can shift fast — always allow a buffer day or two.
- If crossing from Argentina → Chile, you’ll only reach the 4:00 pm ferry if you move quickly. Otherwise, stay overnight at the local campground and enjoy the scenery.
✨ A Journey Like No Other
The Villa O’Higgins–El Chaltén crossing is more than a border route — it’s a passage between two Patagonian worlds, where nature sets the pace and every kilometer is earned through effort and wonder. Whether on foot or by bike, this adventure is the perfect finale for those traveling the Carretera Austral and continuing toward Mount Fitz Roy.
Writen by Fernando Padilla from Cicloaustral & Javier Perez from Suri